Palau and the Philippines
For the Photo Album go to: PACIFIC
March 21, 2006 (edited 02-01-2021)
The previous log was posted from Palau in late January.
I arrived at Koror, the main town in Palau, on January 17th and departed
the 22nd for the Philippines. It was a very convenient stop for an
American cruiser. The currency is U.S. dollars and you can receive and send
first class mail to and from the U.S. for a first-class mail stamp.
This was my first and only stop in Micronesia. Several boats sailed to
Palau directly, avoiding Papua New Guinea, from the Solomons through
the Carolina Islands, of which Truk is the
main attraction. I ended up very close to the Carolinas because I
could not find any wind on the N.W. direction, I tried to follow from Kavieng.
Next time I'll try that strategy.
The customs and immigration people in Palau are rather
strict and gave me the third degree. It is best to contact them in advance by
at least a month of your approximate e.t.a., by e-mail or writing. After I had
cleared in, I moved to the bay behind the main port area in front of the Palau
Yacht Club. The club has hot and cold showers and a great bar and restaurant
This is a private set up owned and run by an Olympia, Washington native, Sam
Scott, who operates a thriving diving service, adjoining the yacht
club. Palau has spectacular diving. "Contessa", the
sailboat I had run into in American Samoa and in Rabaul, P.N.G., had arrived a couple days earlier.
"Morgana", the ketch that left the day after I arrived in Rabaul, was also spending a few weeks in Palau.
Right next to me in the anchorage was "Banshee", from Southern
California, with Joyce and Leslie. They had been here for an extended period.
"Banshee" holed and sunk on a reef in
the Hermit Islands in N.W. Papua New Guinea. Joyce was pulled
out of the sinking boat by the locals. With the help of the natives, they managed
to close the hole and refloat "Banshee". Joyce is writing the story
in a book under the the title
"Marooned".
I made new friends with Tony and Val McDonald, an Australian
couple, on "Stylopora". We have met up
again in Cebu and are once more together here in Puerto Galera.
Tony runs an informal radio "net" with boats in the area. One of the
frequent contacts on this net was the Dutch boat "Johanna". They are
now on their way to Indonesia via Palawan and Malaysian
Borneo.
Sitting at Sam's Bar one evening, I admired the sailing skills of
Gary Peoni on "Athei",
sailing up to his mooring buoy in a classic 8 Meter, which turned out to be
engine less. Gary has sailed her from Honolulu across the
Pacific and to Australia and back up to Guam, where he makes his
home as a boat carpenter. Gary knew the intimate details of
"Contessa", from his time in Honolulu, which was of help to the
third delivery crew of this rather handicapped craft on it's slow
passage to Thailand.
I had a fast passage from Palau to Mindanao. The
trap line netted Yellowtail Tuna several times on this passage. One night
a loud noise on the hull woke me up. When I stepped up into the cockpit, I
could see a good size log float away, but no harm done. I had one rough night
where I had to go under bare poles and it set me off course. I ended up too far
South of Hinuatan Passage, close to Lianga Bay on Mindanao.
The next days were wet and dark and I ended up low on battery
charge because the solar panel was not putting out sufficiently.
The currents in Hinuatan Passage
can run up to 5 knots. And they ran against me during the night. I anchored, in
the dark, North West off the small island and fishing community
of Lapinigan at 9.34 N 125.45 E on January
the 28th. It was a good thing that I did not go to the South side of the island
because a low hanging power line connected it with
the Mindanao shore. There was no mention of this in the cruising
guide nor on C-Map. One should round the island on the N.E. corner to
anchor off the village on the south side of the island. The next day was a very
nice down-wind sail to Surigao, on the N.W. corner
of Mindanao. The "Cruising guide to South East Asia" lists Surigao as
a port of entry but this proved to be inaccurate. Customs and Immigration is
only set up for commercial vessels.
They gave me a temporary clearance for passage to Cebu. In a
way this was lucky break because Surigao was a very interesting stop.
It brought back the atmosphere of my stay in Saigon in the sixties;
in the smells, people, tricycle cabs, charcoal sidewalk cooking, a constant
flow of bankas (outrigger canoes) on the
bay, tin roofed shacks hanging over the edge of the bay. Here, and in many
subsequent anchorages, I have been the only visiting yacht for a long period.
Pearls turned out to be a real bargain in Surigao. I stayed three days
and reprovisioned with fresh fruit and vegetables and diesel.
Another fast sail from Surigao over smooth protected
waters between Leyte and Bohol. I spent the one night anchored in a shallow
bay off Aquinin Point on Lapinini Island at 10.05 N 124.36 E . A more protected anchorage is in the larger bay to
the S.W. of this location. In the morning I took a stroll through the small
fishing village. From here I sailed through the narrow channel
between Bohol and Lapinini. My charts
did not show a height restriction for the power line that crosses the channel.
But it looked too low in the center and I had to do some quick tacking to the
shore to avoid harm. From there it was a slalom course through shallows and
fish trap corrals.
I arrived off the Cebu Yacht Club in the channel
between Cebu and Mactan Island, in the early evening.
"Stylopora" had given me a good GPS
coordinate for the Yacht Club, which turned to be, once again, completely inaccurately
given in the "Cruising Guide". The guide listed it on the east coast
of Mactan Island. And there has never been a yacht club there. The
correct location is 10.19.579 N 123.58.42 E
The y.c. offers med style moorage
to visiting yachts, in a protected marina, at $40 for the first 10 days, $60
for the next week and then it goes to $50 per day. It has showers, a nice bar
with a terrific kitchen. I stayed here much longer than I had planned. It
turned out that my new main sail would take several weeks to be finished.
That's why I decided to repaint the bottom and raise the waterline
in Cebu.
This turned out to a very expensive haul out. Partially due
to my miscalculation of the daily cost on the ways, rain days and extra charges
by the yard. My alternative would have been to go to Subic Bay and
have the sail shipped there.
Cebu is a large metropolitan area with practically any city
convenience. Mactan Island where the Y.C. is located, connected
to Cebu by two bridges, is also a suburban sprawl of townships and a
supermarket and shopping mall are within a 5-minute walk.
The traffic is thick and noisy and tricycle cabs, jeepneys and
taxis vie for the 4 inches of space between them. It is absolute chaos. But in
the 6 weeks there, I only witnessed one minor collision. There is standard to
the chaos and though sometimes hard to recognize by our western eyes there is a
form of courtesy on the road. And this extends to the daily life here. In the
western world we are often bogged down by a ton of regulations in a seemingly
controlled order. Most of the ex-pats here praise the uncontrolled chaos here.
One of the oldest Christian churches in the Philippines was built
by the Augustinians in Carcar, about 20 miles
south of Cebu, in the 16th century. The church of
Santa Catarina. I met sister Elvi in
an internet cafe and she invited me to visit her in Carcar where
she cares for several elderly and also teaches elementary school. I took one of
the local busses from Cebu. The church, convent and several adjoining old
Spanish homes are well preserved. With a large square around it. Unfortunately,
the oldest church in continuous use in the Philippines Santo Nino basilica in
Cebu City is completely boxed in by the city sprawl.
I attended mass at Santo Nino and the newer cathedral of Sto. Rosario in Cebu. There are regular
masses in English besides in Cebuano (a form of Visayan). What impressed me is
the mass attendance. Even in these large churches you need to be there at least
15 minutes before the service starts in order to have a seat. And the average
age of the worshippers is about 20 years below the
average U.S. congregation because of the large numbers of young
people.
Some of the visiting boats in Cebu were
"Chelsea" a 65 foot Swan Ketch
of Gary Schiller from California. He arrived with
his Solomon Island crew, Barry, a day ahead of me and he plans
to head north after he musters additional female crew.
"Ilai'i" a ketch
from Hawaii with Neil as the owner and two Australian crew members
arrived early March via Truk and Palau.
Neil was in Honiara when I was there in November and followed me
to Ghizo and then went North,
skipping Papua New Guinea.
A regular visitor at the Marlin Bar/Restaurant was Lee
Bullock who is building a large catamaran next door. He used to have a multi
hull sales company in Sausalito, California. I made friends with
Vance Smith, originally from New Jersey, who has lived in the area for
several years and came here by way of Hawaii and California. He
is sort of an unofficial assistant manager of the "Marlin", which is
owned by an Englishman, Steve.
My brand new main sail, compliments of my
old Amsterdam neighborhood friend Guus Bierman,
owner of Contender Sailcloth
http://www.contendersailcloth.com/
was delivered by Hyde Sails on Saturday March 11th. I set sail
from Cebu for Puerto Galera on the following Monday. The
new sail is a big improvement from the old one, which had lost it's shape and was torn and
ragged.
This sail is faster and let's me sail
higher to the wind direction.
The first night I anchored in the bay of port Carmen, just to the
North of Cebu City. The next night I sailed and motored all night and then
dropped anchor for the night near the South
Western tip of Marbate Island.
The Visayan Sea is literally littered with fish
"enhancement" buoys. They are anchored in sometimes over 100 feet
depth and the purpose is to attract small fish in the shade of the buoys which
in turn attracts larger prey, like Tuna. Then the local fishermen come out and
set their nets around these buoys. They are difficult to spot. Sometimes they
have a few palm fonts stuck in the top of the pole sticking out from the buoy.
From Marbate I set course for
the southern tip of Tablas Island. I sailed
in a full moon at midnight through the waters between southern Tablas and the adjoining island. I had hoped to be in
Puerto Galera by Friday for St. Patrick day. But the wind
died just South of the Island of Maestre di Campo,
called Sibale by the locals. I motored into
Port Concepcion and this turned out to be a delightful stop.
Concepcion is a small town of fishermen and copra farmers. It
has a n excellent anchorage in a protected bay I anchored at 12.55 N
121.43 E.
Father "German" Mehler, a
Divine Word Missionary, from South Eastern Bavaria, is the priest of
"Immaculate Conception" parish.
We enjoyed each other's company for the evening and next morning I
stayed at Sibale. He is a year older than I am
and has seen a lot of this world. He brought in large amounts of beautiful
marble from the island of Romblon. The floors, wall decorations, large flower
urns, of exquisite colors, the altar, etc. All were hand chiseled, carved and
polished by the local craftsmen.
The island reminded me of the Marquesas because it had the same
order, harmony and the homes were mostly more substantial than the rest of what
I have seen in the Philippines; instead of the bamboo/plywood tin roof shacks
the homes were mostly larger and built in concrete and
masonry and tiled roofs.
The next day, Saturday, was another day and late-night sail but I
made it to anchor in Puerto Galera by just after midnight, after
a challenging sail in the ferry traffic and narrow passages.
I anchored in Bouquet Bay and woke up Sunday
morning recognizing "Stylopora" a 150 feet away. Puerto Galera could be
described as the less elaborate equivalent to
the Philippines what St.Tropez is
to the French Mediterranean. It has high forested hills rising from its
beaches. The small town has a mini board walk/quay with side walk restaurants
and bars, Bougainvilleas, outrigger canoes parked on
the beach in front.
The Puerto Galera Y.C. http://www.pgyc.org/ is nestled in the
trees above the bay. It is a must stop for any yachty to
the Philippines. They have a very active program with several
internationally attended regattas during the year. A Kiwi lady, Donna, is in
charge of the junior dinghy sailors. I plan to participate this afternoon in an
informal race in their 12-foot dinghies. I am anchored on one of their mooring
buoys at $4.00 per day. This also includes use of the shuttle outboard to and
from the boat, yacht club and muelle (quay)
the showers and club house bar and restaurant.
Yesterday I took the ferry banka from
here to Batangas City which is on the
South shore of Luzon island, in order to find an ATM
machine, which there are none of in P.G. It was a little over an hour's ride. I
also managed to get my roll of still film put on a CD for the web album
in Batangas. So, anyone reading this of my cruiser friends on the way to
P.G. try and have plenty of cash before you get to P.G....
I am still planning to leave here in the next two days. Some doubt
was raised yesterday evening, by a veteran Asian sailor here, about the true
Visa expense into Vietnam for a sailboat. He thinks that my $75 only
is for a tourist visa to walk of an airplane or boat into Vietnam but
not for a yacht to ply the Vietnam waters. He thinks that it is more
like $2,500 This needs to be checked out further. Though I
specifically raised the boat entry at the Vietnam consulate in Manila.
I definitely would like to see more of the Philippines. Borocay, Palawan etc. I have only scratched the surface but
enjoyed every minute of it. The people are most gracious and kind. You do not
have to fear as much the occasional risks of violence and theft like in
P.N.G. and to an extend in the Solomons. Sailing between the islands in
protected smooth seas is outstanding. You do need to plan your anchorages with
some care because they are, in some areas, far between, because of depth and
predominant wind exposure. It is inexpensive and uncrowded.
Hopefully I will be able to issue the next edition
from Vietnam.